If you checked out the coopering stuff for the router bit cabinet you'll note that I angled both side of the staves. This time, since I'm going to use mahogany that has no distinct figure to it, I won't have to worry about the continuity of the grain. That makes things a lot simpler because I only have to cut the angle on one edge of each stave. This may cause a problem for glue up. Will do test pieces before committing to this One Angled Side idea.

I experimented with different width staves and different angles to come up with 1 1/4" wide staves, nine in all, eight with a 10 degree bevel on one edge. Did all that graphical putzing around in an old Mac program called SuperPaint, last updated in 1993. When I find something that meets my needs I tend to stick with it. All of the illustrations on this site were done with this program.

Anyway - here's the full scale drawing of the staves. Note that the center stave has all square corners. This will allow me to tweek the width of the coopered part of this piece - AND - give me a nice flat spot to glue on a "stand off" for the beveled mirror.

I plan on ripping all EIGHTEEEN staves ( nine for above the shelf, nine for below the shelf ) to 1 1/4", numbering them with chalk to keep them in the order they were cut - and their orientation. The latter will be needed when I rip the sixteen staves that will have the 10 degree bevel. Having the parts marked will also come in handy at glue up time.

NOTE: The ends of the coopered parts will be ripped vertically after the glue has had a few days to dry. Having straight rather than angled edges will make fitting the frame to the coopered parts MUCH easier.

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Let's work out some more of the details ---->

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